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Submitted by: Scott Morris
Woodburning Stove flues
Flue – What a Scorcher
The flue should if at all possible be the unseen andunheard part of your multifuel stoves system.
If you can observe smoke, it may have a problem, and if it is possible to pick up crackling up there, you’ve got a chimney fire which means you certainly are having issues.
There is nothing in law to state you have to make use of a expert installation technician, but you are firmly advised to leave it to the specialists.
It is way too hazardous to do it yourself or perhaps depend upon uninformed builders.
Having had to expensively rebuild a system that had been created using unlawful galvanised flue pipe tubing that would produce deadly fumes, this article writer talks whereof he knows.
You will find British Standards and Building Regulations governing flues and chimneys, but before we get into that, the good news is your multifuel stove maker has provided an exit hole that is designed to be the right dimensions for your device.
All you have to do is steer clear of any kind of temptation to scale back the size (normally the diameter as most stove flues are round) of the flue at any point.
Retain the size determined by the maker. And never increase it simply because which could lead to further problems also.
Some producers offer you a choice of flue exits: at the top or out the rear.
Utilize the top one when possible, although if the stove is to sit in front of the chimney line then your other can be a helpful solution.
In which case, 150mm is the maximum horizontal distance that the tube must travel.
Flues intended for stoves come in two sorts.
For those who have a free standing traditionally-styled stove, the actual flue is going to be on display in the room and you will probably want to use a vitreous enamel-coated single-skin flue.
These can be matched to the stove, along with matt or gloss black the most popular.
Other colours may be selected, as well as the traditional cast iron can also be found.
A single skin flue is alright for within the room however once it gets in the chimney where background temperature is lower, it may cause a cold spot which usually ruins the draught that is essential for good burning.
The maximum length for an enamelled flue will be 1.8 metres however in practice you want to hook it up to an insulated flue or liner as soon as it leaves the room.
By no means let it pass through a ceiling because it is a fire danger, or even utilize it outside the home.
For that serious in-chimney section, and for the entire entire flue in the case of built-in cassette stoves, use a twin-walled, insulated stainless stee system.
This will normally have a high-quality 316 grade inner, 25mm of ceramic mat insulation and then a 304 grade stainless steel outer skin.
The skins will be continuously welded along at the seams, and the parts of tubing lock to one another: always install with the spigot end downward in order that it goes inside the sections below.
Up, up and away
Your motto regarding exhausting a woodburner will be: keep it straight.
Preferably, have a basic up and down flue of sufficient length.
In which case you should guarantee a good pull in the chimney along with a cleanly burning fire.
If thats not realistic, in that case have no in excess of two bends, producing one offset of the flue.
A bend will need to preferably not more than 30 degrees; the maximum allowable is 45 degrees from the vertical.
You should try to go at least 500m vertically before the first bend.
Unless ones stove features a way of allowing you to conveniently access the flue for cleaning and evaluation, which is not likely since the top air contro flap typically will get in the way, and then Building Regulations need you to install a purpose-built access door within the chimney.
Youll always be grateful the first time you’ve got a obstruction or perhaps tar residue build-up
With out getting into the whole chimney legislation, that are yet another subject, a flue will have to be a minimum height of 4.5 metres from the top of the stove.
If you possibly could, stay clear of it going up the exterior of the property, in addition to insulate any void inside the chimney to maintain the actual flue warm; and if it goes through wood flooring or between roofing timbers, be certain it has a firestop at this stage for protection.
A twisted firestarter
Exactly why do you have chimney fires?
They tend to begin at bends in the flue. These are weak spots in which virtually any build-up with creosote tar residue will probably usually happen.
The reasons you get build-up involve sluggish burning, working with green wood which has never been seasoned, and using wood combined with coal.
The former emits moisture, the latter sulphur: the combined result is sticky and also unpleasant and also being very corrosive.
Keep away from at all costs. Woodburners are not intended for coal firing.
While you are getting your flue installed, do not allow your installer to overlook anotherl outlets which may be accessible, particularly in your built-in stove.
These can include a vent to let heat to escape through the top of the furnace to warm the space: and possibly another to allow the heating of the air inside a second room.
Read the specifications with your supplier.
Last but not least, use the assistance of your own chimney sweep.
You can use a Chimney Cleaning Log to help dislodge tar, but eventually the only approved procedure for appropriately cleaning a flue is by mechanical scrubbing using a brush of the identical size.
British Standards:
BS 4543 regulates factory-made chimneys and their flues
BS 6461 deals with flues for appliances including Woodburners
About the Author: The UKs Woodburning Stoves Shop, Woodburners and Multifuel Stoves, Traditional and Contemproary Stoves as well as Flue Pipes and AccessoriesThe UKs Woodburning Stoves, Multifuel Stoves and Stove Accessories shop
woodburning-stoves.co.uk/woodburning-stoves.co.uk/wood-burning-stoves-3342-0000woodburning-stoves.co.uk/multifuel-stoves-3353-0000
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